Chicago has been on my beery bucket list ever since learning about its beer scene through the voice of Michael Kiser and Good Beer Hunting. I had an opportunity to visit the Windy City in April 2023. Going was an easy choice. With so many breweries, choosing the breweries to visit was not as easy.
This is the second of three journal entries about my Chicago Beer Hunting treks in April 2023. You can read my first journal entry by clicking the button below.
Originally I hadn’t planned on including Goose Island on my brewery trekking list. A casual conversation from a patron at Crushed By Giants Brewing and new Chicago transplant, mentioned how much he enjoyed the Goose Island Fulton Street brewery tour, I reconsidered and purchased my ticket online.
Goose Island Brewing the the first craft beer company bought by Anheuser-Busch in 2011, which really caused a cosmic shift in the industry. It was the first in a string of craft beer company purchases by the behemoth AB-InBev (ABI) as craft was growing and gaining market share away from industrial beer. ABI would go to soak up other legendary breweries such as 10 Barrel Brewing (OR), Elysian Brewing (WA) Devils Backbone (VA) and Wicked Weed (NC). As of today, the AB website displays 20 craft beverage companies in “The High End” constellation.
“On Monday, Anheuser-Busch, the nation’s biggest brewer, said it would buy Chicago’s Goose Island for $38.8 million, reflecting the growing demand for craft-style beers as the major brewers have seen some big sales declines.”
The Goose Island acquisition was well documented in the Josh Noel book Barrel-Aged Stout and Selling Out: Goose Island, Anheuser-Busch, and How Craft Beer Became Big Business. If you have an interest in craft beer this book is well written and worth reading.
Breweries that have been absorbed to ABI, Miller-Coors, or any other conglomerate, often looses its luster and support from dedicated beer geeks. This is ultimately a business decision for both companies. The larger company can provide greater resources and distribution to the artisanal brewery as it did taking Goose Island IPA national, but may also move production to other cities, use cheaper ingredients, reduce the number of beers to only the best selling products. Still, these breweries can continue to make great beer. Goose Island’s Bourbon County Stout remains an annual tradition for me and many others.
More recently the craft beer growth has stalled. AB-InBev is in business to make a profit. And such, has made some major moves to reflect this current trend by closing one of those breweries, Platform Beer Co., and laying off staff in some others as reported in Good Beer Hunting (March 2023).
“A week after Ohio’s Platform Beer Co. ceased operations and laid off its staff, other craft breweries under the Anheuser-Busch InBev (ABI) umbrella also laid off an unknown number of sales and marketing employees.”
Change is inevitable. Beer is no different.
Goose Island Fulton Street
The Fulton Street brewery is the second Goose Island location, after their need to grow from the small brewery taproom at Clayton Avenue. Goose Island is a well established brewery with a range of proven beers from Belgian styles to barrel-aged stouts.
Goose Island Brewing Street View
I arrived shortly before their noontime taproom opening. My tour would be at 1 pm, so I had some time to take in the taproom and the beer menu. The news of ABI shake ups in The High End group was still fresh and here I sat at what could be thought of as ground zero. Goose Island looks like a craft beer brewery. Larger than most, sure, but not industrial by any means. The only outward sign is the ABI labeling on the kegs. Still, the people working there are ABI employees, and surely they have been affected by this news. I asked several of the staff what their experience. They told me that 16 - 40 staff have been recently let go via ABI but all were from social media shop. The brewing team was not affected at all. They are allowed to brew what they want, I’m sure within reason. They are enjoying the work, the people, and the process.
Goose Island Brewing Fulton Street Taproom
The taproom offers a Barrel Flight which was perfect. It included classics, an honorary brew, and a legend:
Sophie - Belgian-style farmhouse ale aged in wine barrels with zested orange peel.
Matilda - Belgian-style pale ale fermented with Brettanomyces.
Drunker Bock - 11% ABV named for former GIB brewer Marc Drucker.
Bourbon County Stout 2022 - 14.3% ABV barrel-aged on a variety of bourbon barrels.
Not included in the flight, but provided by the beer tender was the Bourbon County Stout (2 Year Templeton Rye Barrel-Aged). The BCS varietals aren’t typically available in most package good stores or on draft, so to be able to taste this was a treat.
One comment I thought was a positive note for Goose Island and vote of confidence was that they will be relocating their Clayton Street facility (original Chicago location) to a new place that they will now own, but still in visual distance of the physical Goose Island for which the brewery is named.
Goose Island Brewing Tasting Glasses
The tour was worth the $15 price and the time. The tour is excellent for those wanting to learn more about the brewing process plus getting a personal touch of some special beers. Jonny Coffman hosted our tour. I didn't know it at the time that Jonny is a cancer survivor and his story was told here on the Today Show.
“If you just sit around and you dwell, it’s not going to do it,” he said. “And that’s not just with cancer, that’s just with anything in life. So I attribute it to positive mental attitude, family, friends, maybe the Keytruda (treatment) worked. ”
A stop at the barrel room across the street was a highlight for me. Their larger barrel room is located a few blocks away. The tour was punctuated by our tour guide Jonny discussing the brewing process and tasting samples of GI beers he has been working on.
Goose Island Brewing Fulton Street Barrel
Before leaving Goose Island I purchased a 2018 Proprietor’s Bourbon County Stout. These high-end varietals are normally available, I figured I may never be at this iconic brewery again and should have a special beer to share with others later. The Proprietor’s is a special blend that changes each year. The 2018 was highly rated and explored what chocolate could bring to this big beer.
You can think what you want about ABI buying out GI but they make great beer and are very much dedicated to the culture and tradition.
As I was leaving, on the sidewalk outside the brewery I met a couple, one cladding a t-shirt from The Alchemist and the other with one from Tree House. Ah, fellow beer geeks — I had to talk with them. They too had come to tour this iconic brewery.
Goose Island Beer Company
1800 West Fulton Street
Chicago, IL 60612
GooseIsland.com/Fulton-brewery / Untappd
Forbidden Root Brewing
When doing my homework on Chicago breweries I discovered Forbidden Root. I was immediately attracted to the idea of beer created with botanicals. It’s not unique, but is uncommon. They were on the short list.
Forbidden Root front door signage
I also noticed on their staff page that besides Robert Finkel, founder and Rootmaster, there was Randy Mosher. Title—Alchemist. Randy is the author of the beer category standard reference — including the Cicerone program — Tasting Beer: An Insider’s Guide to the World’s Greatest Drink. Another of his books is Radical Brewing: Recipes, Tales and World-Altering Meditations in a Glass. I found both of these titles, Alchemist and Radical Brewing, and Randy’s expertise to be fitting for the identity Forbidden Root has taken.
A bit more about Randy Mosher. In the forward to Mosher’s Radical Brewing book, famed beer writer and explorer Michael Jackson transformed Mosher from mere mortal to eponym for his ability to create classic beers from discovered recipes.
I see Mosher as a curious mind looking for outlets and one of those is the world of beer. I can imagine the Alchemist and the Rootmaster working late into the night over a steamy concoction.
The Food
Food at Forbidden Root is interesting and phenomenal. More than just comfort or pub food, it is meant to elevate the beer experience as well. The adventurous can opt for the Lion’s Mane Mushroom Cakes, go high end with the Duck and Dumplings or Ora King Salmon. The Milk Brined Pork Schnitzel Sandwich was recommended from guys at Goose Island and they were convincing.
The Beer
“At Forbidden Root, Chicago’s first botanic brewery, we brew craft beer inspired by nature. We love barley, water, hops, and yeast, and use those as a base to explore a rich world of wild ingredients.”
Forbidden Root flight and menu
Reading the descriptions of their core beers a feast of botanicals. I wanted to taste as many of these beers as I could with a busy schedule ahead. I went in the other direction and choose a flight of their one-offs.
Closer Afield - farmhouse ale at 4.5% ABV
Very Cranberry - Belgian blonde ale at 6.2% ABV with slight tartness from the cranberry.
Captain RonRon - wheat ale at 5.2% ABV with strawberry purée, lime juice and rum essence.
Outdated Tech - American IPA at 6.8% ABV.
Doobie Two-Dot - Belgian dubbed at 7% ABV.
Milk Brined Pork Schnitzel Sandwich
I enjoyed the beer, the food, the high-rise table by the front window. I wish I had more time to experience some of their core beers and the Lion’s Mane Mushroom Cakes. Alas, one more brewery was calling and I must go.
Forbidden Root taproom beer board
Forbidden Root Restaurant & Brewery
1746 W Chicago Ave
Chicago, IL 60622
ForbiddenRoot.com / Untappd
Ørkenoy Brewing
Ørkenoy is a mash up of two nordic words — ørken, meaning desert, and oy, for island. Together — deserted island.
“The name, he says, “was in relation to the fact that we are in a space still off the beaten path, the idea of the 606 as a current that would bring things to us. It was the question, ‘If you got to bring one thing to a desert island, what would it be?’ Our answer was beer.””
The brewery is located within the Kimball Arts Center in a rather nondescript location.
Since this was my first time in Chicago, I'm only becoming familiar with the layouts of the various neighborhood and what each represents. Ørkenoy is between two posh communities.
I assumed the Kimball Arts Center was associated with an art school but it is a business complex bringing together art and artisan businesses such as a coffee shop, photographers, tattoo shop, a brewery, and other like minds.
The brewery is not near a transit line. For this this leg of my trekking I took an Uber from Forbidden Root. It’s out there. It does not display the noticeable outside indications that a brewery is inside. But this is the place. They work from a 5-bbl brew system on location.
Økenoy brewery murals
“Ørkenoy is a creative enclave located in the Humboldt Park neighborhood of Chicago, operating as a brewery, cocktail bar, kitchen and synergetic haunt for local artists. Driven by “uncharted inspiration,” the hybrid venue, anchored within the Kimball Arts Center, is infused with Nordic influences and an eclectic, welcoming ambiance.”
Green water bottles greeted me as I sat at a table away from the bar. Ordering is handled online — a server finds you. The staff was friendly, the taproom open and bright. On this afternoon there was a mix of families with small children, couples, buddies. Perhaps the nordic theme or the nearby artisan shops provides a contemporary setting. Art envelopes this place, inside the taproom, large colorful murals on the building walls outside.
Økenoy tasting glass with barleywine
Tasting Flight
Sambuca Woodland - 4.7%ABV Smokey little session rauchbier inspired by our feline friend Sambuca Woodland.expressively smoked. Smoke lingers. Very tasty. Flight tasting. smoked lager - nice smoke not over powering.
Rye Ale W/ Figs & Toasted Fennel - 4%- rye ale with figs and toaster fennel - herbaceous, nice fennel but not overpowering. The best of this flight group.
Juleøl Barley Wine - Not sweet nor boozy. Nice and drinkable but not what I expected for the style. 8% short of the typical for the style. The most expensive of the group but surprisingly the least enjoyed.
Oyster Stout - 4.9%ABV. Oysters were used three ways for this brew: full in the mash, shelled and shucked right into the wort. Nice and smooth. To me a bit thin for a stout. Some minerality present. I'm from Maryland and oysters are our thing. I had to try it.
Økenoy Taproom
Come to Ørkenoy for the beer, cocktails, food, or the small market in the back. Sit inside or outside, Chicago weather permitting.
Again, I have sampled just a glance of this place. Reading through reviews I discovered that have an active events calendar as well.
Ørkenoy
1757 N Kimball Ave Floor 1
Chicago, IL 60647
Orkney.com / Untappd
Some Closing Thoughts
When I take the time to dig into the story behind the beer I am always amazed at the journey. A brewery is a mash up (pun not intended) of dreams, business, science, machines, community. I love the beer and I love these stories.
It amazed me while on my walk from the train to my Goose Island tour, how many breweries are in Chicago. Small, dwarfed by the size of Goose Island and perhaps making well crafted, interesting and delicious beer. Great Central Brewing,
Finch Beer Company, Midwest Coastal Brewing, On Tour Brewing, Casa Humilde,
All Rise Brewing.
I ventured across many metro lines, buses, neighborhoods. Some attractive and some other ones. It’s interesting where the pursuit of good beer will take you. I had a few pleasant surprises. I wasn't planning on going to the Goose Island brewery until I had the passing conversation from a new Chicago local who had recommended it. The tour, the taproom, the beer tenders and Jonny the tour guide were all very open and willing to share. I have a renewed appreciation of Goose Island beer. While there it didn't matter if they had been bought by a large multi-national company.
Maryland Beer Apparel
If you enjoy beer from Maryland breweries then you should check out the Deep Beer collection on Amazon. Below is just one of the collection, displaying every brewery in Maryland. I hope you will support this journal by purchasing apparel from the collection
