Introduction
I love western Maryland: the mountains, stream, forests, history and it’s people. And, when I'm able to travel to that area, I'm always hoping to discover new beer venues. I was invited by Dan Winger at Upper Stem Brewery to stop by and learn about his adventures in craft beer.
Upper Stem Brewery is a farm brewery in Washington County, just northeast of Hagerstown, MD. In April 2020, as the world grappled with the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic, Dan Winger decided to launch his brewery, a risky move given the uncertain times. Yet, they navigated the challenge through ingenuity and a small canning operation, providing curbside delivery that kept the dream alive.
Dan Winger, owner/brewer in the Upper Stem brewhouse
Dan's entry into brewing was inspired by a stint in London in the late 1990s when the craft beer movement was growing in the United States. This exposure to diverse beer cultures sparked Dan’s desire to bring unique brewing styles back to Maryland, aiming to enrich the local beer scene, which was then dominated by few craft options.
Upper Stem canning equipment
Upper Stem Brewery operates on a 10-barrel system, an upgrade from its original setup, which included farm dairy equipment turned into brewing apparatus. Now, with four fermenters and a production range of 700-800 barrels annually, the brewery mainly sells directly from its taproom, with some kegs going to local restaurants, emphasizing the importance of local engagement over wider distribution.
Dan emphasizes traditional brewing methods, focusing on local ingredients, including hops grown on their farm. Despite challenges like Maryland’s less-than-ideal hop-growing climate, recent innovations, such as the introduction of new hop varieties such as the Monocacy Hop, that offer hope for enhancing local hop production.
The Keys to Success
Dan says that the key to their success is due to three factors.
One, is their friendly atmosphere. “We greet everyone that comes in here, and people will come back if they're treated right.”
“People seem to know us for our outdoors. We’ve got picnic tables, a pavilion, and chairs in our woods—like a Biergarten.”
Two, “We have a large outdoor area, and people seem to know us for our outdoors. We've got picnic tables, a pavilion, and chairs in our woods. Kind of like a Biergarten.” Dan added, “And right now, we're the only one in Washington County with real outdoor seating.” Plus, “We try to have entertainment outside each week in the summer. And it is generally acoustic.”
And third, there is the beer. “I think our beers stand for themselves.” The California Oak West Coast IPA, the Mo Hazy IPA, and Killer Bees California Common honey steam beer are their three biggest sellers. But Belgian beers are Dan’s favorite, and there is always one or more on tap.
Community and Collaboration
Community and collaboration are central to Upper Stem Brewery’s philosophy. Dan shares insights into their efforts to support and collaborate with local businesses, including other breweries, emphasizing a culture of mutual help that defines the craft beer community. This ethos extends to their approach to hosting events and engaging with customers, making the brewery a hub for local interactions and enjoyment, set against the backdrop of their scenic farm brewery setting.
Upper Stem is a family business, and Dan’s wife helps out. Dan says, “She's basically handling all the cellar work right now. She helps tremendously on brew days, both brewing and doing a lot of the lab work as well.” They actually started home brewing together in the late eighties and early nineties.
What’s Next
As for the future, Dan is optimistic. Upper Stem Brewery continues to adapt, focusing on enhancing its equipment and facilities to improve production and customer experience. With plans to introduce new beers and maintain high quality, the brewery is poised to remain a beloved part of Maryland's craft beer scene in Western Maryland. It is deeply rooted in its community and committed to brewing excellent craft beer.
Upper Stem taproom is open Thursday through Sunday
Conclusion
If you are looking for some good local beer in a farm atmosphere with a friendly atmosphere, the Upper Stem Brewery has all the right ingredients. The taproom is open Thursday through Sunday. To keep up with their latest hours, food trucks, and music events, check out their website: upperstembrewery.com. Dan promises you’ll have a great experience.
Upper Stem Brewery
20150 Leitersburg Pike
Hagerstown, MD 21742
Website: upperstembrewery.com
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
I began writing about these adventures into good beer back in February 2013. My journal entries include travels and muses from around the USA and other countries. In July 2019, I began writing the Maryland column for the Mid-Atlantic Brew News, a bi-monthly regional newspaper for beer enthusiasts that covers six states (NJ, PA, WV, MD, DE, VA) and Washington, DC.
